Total Distance: Approximately 9 miles
Elevation Gain: Approximately 1400 ft.
Time: 7:15 pm - Midnight
Weather: Clear skies and a cool evening.
So this was the 104th weekend hike, marking 2 years worth of weekends spent at least day hiking somewhere. Every 2 years I am required to be re-certified in Wilderness First Aid by my school. The last time I took the course was the weekend of Aug. 28th and 29th in 2010. The course runs from 8 am to 5 pm, both days. Usually longer because I raise my hand and talk, probably too much. Two years ago, the thought of a hike before or after class would never have occurred to me. Months ago I was planning this week, knowing the hike would have to happen between the hours of 5 pm and 8am. It was obvious that it needed to be close, relatively short, but spectacular too. Green Lake immediately came to mind. Carbon river road in Mount Rainier is close, this hike is 10 miles (but 6 on an old road), and the Carbon River is a special place for me.
I sent out a big invite to all the participants of the course and friends. Thankfully, I had three people say yes (two of them I had never hiked with before). We didn't get to the trailhead until 7 pm. We had to run around after class situating cars, pick one person up, and get gas. It was a beautiful evening, and as we walked the first 3 miles through the old growth forest of the Carbon River valley, it got dark quickly. About 70 minutes later, we were at the trailhead (2 miles from Ipsut and the trailhead for the Carbon Glacier). We took off up the 1400 feet and 1.8 miles to the lake. It was headlamp time after a good 20 minutes of night hiking. We pushed up at a good clip and were at the lake by 9:06 pm. We enjoyed a good break with some snacks. We got some water and treated it, and began the walk down close to 9:45 pm. We were at the car by midnight. The hike was really nice. We laughed and had great talks. The moon was at half and would reveal itself in brief, mysterious stints. I decided not to wear my boots. My feet felt great, and my ankles held up.
I made it home around 1:30am and thought about where I was 2 years ago. Life was pretty rough that week. I was lost. I claimed a love of the woods but only had a handful of experience as a hiker. I started hiking on the weekends to prove to myself I had the capacity for big love and big commitments. I remember thinking how I had to show everyone I knew or would come to know that this is what I was up to. Then a year went by. I distinctly remember the evening a year later on my hike around Mt. Hood. Creighton and I were sitting fighting bugs and sore feet (I was, you know Creighton doesn't get sore feet). I remember sitting and watching the sky as the light faded in the west. I remember the tears that welled up behind my eyes as the milestone set in. And I remember countless other memories of that first year and of this past one. Some are preserved in this blog and others only in my mind. As I reflect on last's nights hike, and all the others before, I can bring that same emotion up but its different. This last year really stretched and grew my commitment. This year it got hard, it got inconvenient, it got uncomfortable. A big commitment is not always easy, it is not always convenient, it is not always comfortable. I guess that's why it's a commitment. For about 100 weeks, I thought the commitment was to hiking, but during my time in the Winds I started thinking about other commitments to make to myself. I did not feel the need to blog or recruit the world in hearing these. I have made commitments to aspects of my exercise, fitness, and training. It all fits in what I think the original was all about, but I wasn't able to see it until now. I made a commitment to my own life. To live life in a way that makes me at my best in all areas with a fierce dedication. I will still blog about my hikes on here because I like the preservation of memories. I will continue to list the week's number as long as there is a consecutive streak to mention. I have no idea when the streak will stop, but when it does it will be on my terms and not out of some obligation I make to the internet.
Picture:
Forgot to charge camera.
Google Map
Sunday, August 26, 2012
Sunday, August 19, 2012
Week 103 Aug. 19 - Little Annapurna and the Enchantment Lake Basin
Total Distance: Approximately 18 miles
Elevation Gain: Approximately 5000 ft.
Time: 8:00 am - 8:30 pm
Weather: Partly cloudy, a light 5 minute rain, and some glorious sun breaks.
You cannot hike in Washington without being asked, "have you hiked the Enchantments?" The "Enchantments" are an area in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. It has 5 sections that are restricted to special permits, but the main trail is a 19 mile point to point hike on the east side of the central Cascades. Until Sunday, my reply was always "no," at which point the person asking would launch into the most astonished description of the beauty and awe of the place. Now I have done some amazing hikes, and I have done some pretty awesome hikes. Rarely when hearing about "the hike I have to do" do I feel that impressed. It is like an overhyped movie. When people love a place or have a special place, it does not always hit the other person the same way. After finally doing the Enchantments, I feel it hasn't been hyped enough to match its beauty. This was one of the most beautiful hikes I've ever done. And it could be the best Washington has to offer.
It started with sitting around my house for two days and feeling like I had to get out and do something big. Creighton and I had been discussing doing this hike as we drove back from the Wind Rivers. It just worked better to go Sunday, but it is a long drive. We decided to go camp near the trailhead Saturday night. I sent the obligatory text to other hiking friends and I got a bite from a friend who loves to hike but only occasionally can make it out with me. He has been on some of the best weather snowshoes that Creighton, Gil, and I have had in Mount Rainier. He too has wanted to hike the Enchantments since moving up here 4 years ago.
We woke up around 6 am, packed up our little car camp, and got our day packs ready. We were driving by 7:15 am and parked at the trailhead by 7:45 am. Filled out the day use permit, geared up, and took off into the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. There was a nice familiarity as the hike began in the trees. It was like coming home after two weeks of cruising outside Washington. We were using the Lake Stuart trail for the first 2.5 miles. We hiked at a brisk pace, slowly gaining a bit of elevation. It took about an hour to get to Colchuck Lake trail junction. From here we climbed a good 1500 ft in a mile and half. The trail was steep and rugged. We reached the Lake and countered around to the south, where we took a nice long break in the big boulder field. It was 10 am when we stopped.
The next mile is up to Aasgard Pass. It gains 2200 feet over that mile. You would not be surprised to read, if you are an avid reader, that Creighton zoomed up to the top. He was up in an hour and he said he was "power striding," which is not running. I think he now wishes he had ran it to see how quickly it would go. My friend and I walked up without breaking and made it in an hour and a half. We saw three marmots on the way. You know how I love marmots, and my other friend had never seen one before. When we reached Creighton, I asked if he saw the marmots and he said no, but he had seen a mountain goat up on the pass waiting for us. I have never seen a mountain goat, and I was a tad jealous.
We continued on the trail, now up in the Enchantment Lake Basin, and I was leading the three of us. I was scanning for goats; I wanted to see my first one. I saw a white rock that looked like a goat. Then the rock moved like a goat, and there it was. My first goat! It looked like it was on the trail so as we walked we got closer and closer. Soon we were within 30 feet and it didn't mind us a bit. I got a picture or two, and I was completely tickled. We walked along and started feel a bit of rain. We found a good sized rock and took a break while the rain sprinkled on us for about 5 minutes. I took a video of the goat moving, which killed the battery in my camera. After a little discussion, we decided to climb up Little Annapurna, a 8440 ft peak in the basin. It was a pretty easy walk up. I did a little bouldering work and some snow walking, but it wasn't too steep.
From the top, the peak to the south, McClellan Peak, was calling our name too. We walked down and across a saddle joining the two. The views were better from McClellan. We made our away down to the lakes, and we just had to jump in Crystal Lake. I wish the camera was working because we jumped in the clearest water. I guess it helps when it still has chances of ice floating in it. The sun was out, and we warmed ourselves with its rays and snacked a bit. We took off around 4:30 pm to head back down.
At the pass, there were about 6 mountain goats walking around together including a little one with little horns. It was so cute. We took a wide berth to avoid making any goat angry. Then we took an hour to walk down back to Colchuck Lake. The brutal walk up was an even more brutal walk down. We took a nice long water break after we hit Colchuck Lake. Then it took about two hours to make it down from there.
A magical place for sure. One I will get a permit for overnight camping soon. I might even try to get up there this winter.
Orchid: Mountain goats!
Onion: Dead battery in camera.
Picture:
Google Map
Elevation Gain: Approximately 5000 ft.
Time: 8:00 am - 8:30 pm
Weather: Partly cloudy, a light 5 minute rain, and some glorious sun breaks.
You cannot hike in Washington without being asked, "have you hiked the Enchantments?" The "Enchantments" are an area in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. It has 5 sections that are restricted to special permits, but the main trail is a 19 mile point to point hike on the east side of the central Cascades. Until Sunday, my reply was always "no," at which point the person asking would launch into the most astonished description of the beauty and awe of the place. Now I have done some amazing hikes, and I have done some pretty awesome hikes. Rarely when hearing about "the hike I have to do" do I feel that impressed. It is like an overhyped movie. When people love a place or have a special place, it does not always hit the other person the same way. After finally doing the Enchantments, I feel it hasn't been hyped enough to match its beauty. This was one of the most beautiful hikes I've ever done. And it could be the best Washington has to offer.
It started with sitting around my house for two days and feeling like I had to get out and do something big. Creighton and I had been discussing doing this hike as we drove back from the Wind Rivers. It just worked better to go Sunday, but it is a long drive. We decided to go camp near the trailhead Saturday night. I sent the obligatory text to other hiking friends and I got a bite from a friend who loves to hike but only occasionally can make it out with me. He has been on some of the best weather snowshoes that Creighton, Gil, and I have had in Mount Rainier. He too has wanted to hike the Enchantments since moving up here 4 years ago.
We woke up around 6 am, packed up our little car camp, and got our day packs ready. We were driving by 7:15 am and parked at the trailhead by 7:45 am. Filled out the day use permit, geared up, and took off into the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. There was a nice familiarity as the hike began in the trees. It was like coming home after two weeks of cruising outside Washington. We were using the Lake Stuart trail for the first 2.5 miles. We hiked at a brisk pace, slowly gaining a bit of elevation. It took about an hour to get to Colchuck Lake trail junction. From here we climbed a good 1500 ft in a mile and half. The trail was steep and rugged. We reached the Lake and countered around to the south, where we took a nice long break in the big boulder field. It was 10 am when we stopped.
The next mile is up to Aasgard Pass. It gains 2200 feet over that mile. You would not be surprised to read, if you are an avid reader, that Creighton zoomed up to the top. He was up in an hour and he said he was "power striding," which is not running. I think he now wishes he had ran it to see how quickly it would go. My friend and I walked up without breaking and made it in an hour and a half. We saw three marmots on the way. You know how I love marmots, and my other friend had never seen one before. When we reached Creighton, I asked if he saw the marmots and he said no, but he had seen a mountain goat up on the pass waiting for us. I have never seen a mountain goat, and I was a tad jealous.
We continued on the trail, now up in the Enchantment Lake Basin, and I was leading the three of us. I was scanning for goats; I wanted to see my first one. I saw a white rock that looked like a goat. Then the rock moved like a goat, and there it was. My first goat! It looked like it was on the trail so as we walked we got closer and closer. Soon we were within 30 feet and it didn't mind us a bit. I got a picture or two, and I was completely tickled. We walked along and started feel a bit of rain. We found a good sized rock and took a break while the rain sprinkled on us for about 5 minutes. I took a video of the goat moving, which killed the battery in my camera. After a little discussion, we decided to climb up Little Annapurna, a 8440 ft peak in the basin. It was a pretty easy walk up. I did a little bouldering work and some snow walking, but it wasn't too steep.
From the top, the peak to the south, McClellan Peak, was calling our name too. We walked down and across a saddle joining the two. The views were better from McClellan. We made our away down to the lakes, and we just had to jump in Crystal Lake. I wish the camera was working because we jumped in the clearest water. I guess it helps when it still has chances of ice floating in it. The sun was out, and we warmed ourselves with its rays and snacked a bit. We took off around 4:30 pm to head back down.
At the pass, there were about 6 mountain goats walking around together including a little one with little horns. It was so cute. We took a wide berth to avoid making any goat angry. Then we took an hour to walk down back to Colchuck Lake. The brutal walk up was an even more brutal walk down. We took a nice long water break after we hit Colchuck Lake. Then it took about two hours to make it down from there.
A magical place for sure. One I will get a permit for overnight camping soon. I might even try to get up there this winter.
Orchid: Mountain goats!
Onion: Dead battery in camera.
Picture:
Google Map
Thursday, August 16, 2012
Week 102.6 Aug. 16 - Trapper Peak
Total Distance: Approximately 4 miles
Elevation Gain: Approximately 4000 ft.
Time: 12:15 pm - 3:55 pm
Weather: Warm, sunny, and hazy with wildfire smoke.
On our way back from The Wind Rivers, Creighton and I climbed up to the highest peak in the Bitterroot National Forest in southwest Montana. The hike was short but steep. We got to the trailhead around noon, and I was geared up and ready to go by 12:15 pm. The hike starts off steep, levels for a bit, then actually drops a little, then begins a steady climb up for the last 3 miles.
I was able to keep moving the entire assent, some two and a half hours up. The final thirty minutes was on lichen covered, medium sized rocks. It reminded me of the Winds, and it was nice to climb up above 10,000 feet one last time before dropping to sea level the next day. Creighton shared his avocados and M&M's at the summit. We sat and enjoyed the somewhat hazy views. We signed the summit register and read some old entries. There were some funny ones for sure.
We had a quick decent, and then got on the road back to Tacoma. A great hike, and I get to add another state to the places I have hiked.
Orchid: Consistent pace to the top.
Onion: Downhill was painful.
Picture:
Google Map
Elevation Gain: Approximately 4000 ft.
Time: 12:15 pm - 3:55 pm
Weather: Warm, sunny, and hazy with wildfire smoke.
On our way back from The Wind Rivers, Creighton and I climbed up to the highest peak in the Bitterroot National Forest in southwest Montana. The hike was short but steep. We got to the trailhead around noon, and I was geared up and ready to go by 12:15 pm. The hike starts off steep, levels for a bit, then actually drops a little, then begins a steady climb up for the last 3 miles.
I was able to keep moving the entire assent, some two and a half hours up. The final thirty minutes was on lichen covered, medium sized rocks. It reminded me of the Winds, and it was nice to climb up above 10,000 feet one last time before dropping to sea level the next day. Creighton shared his avocados and M&M's at the summit. We sat and enjoyed the somewhat hazy views. We signed the summit register and read some old entries. There were some funny ones for sure.
We had a quick decent, and then got on the road back to Tacoma. A great hike, and I get to add another state to the places I have hiked.
Orchid: Consistent pace to the top.
Onion: Downhill was painful.
Picture:
Google Map
Wednesday, August 1, 2012
Weeks 101 & 102 Aug. 1 - 15 - The Wind Rivers
July 31, 2012
It is the evening before Creighton and I start a trip we have been talking about for years. Creighton has spent many days and nights in the Winds for extended lengths and has gone many of the summers I have known him these past 7 years. The planning, the preparation, the packing and repacking, the shopping, and the travel is so close to finally ending and the actual trip beginning. We will hike in tomorrow carrying all the gear and all the food we will need for 15 days and 14 nights. I will journal every evening and take lots of pictures.
In so many ways, this feels like the culmination of almost two years of hiking every weekend but really 6 years of backpacking and hiking. I have the right gear, have the experience carrying my pack, have a better level of fitness than I have had in years, and have the knowledge of how to properly use what I bring. All that being said, I am nervous. The next two weeks will be a test, a test to see if I really do love being outside as much as I claim. If I pass, I am not confident I will be able to leave a life of wilderness living behind. It will be the dream that will compel and drive every action and choice in my life. It may not even be a test; it might just be a confirmation of what I already believe is true.
August 9th, 2012
Since seeing Bonney Pass from the day hike on 8/5 I have felt intimidated. From below the Gooseneck Pinacle the pass looked like a straight drop off. In the past two days, I have gone up and over 2 12,500 ft passes with a heavy full-on pack. We left camp around 11 am this morning to scout Bonney Pass with day packs. It took me three hours, but I am sitting on the top of an almost 13,000 ft pass, looking straight at Gannett and all sorts of rugged peaks and ridges to excite the eyes. The Winds are an amazing place. I am continually blown away by their beauty. As Creighton has said before, they also demand attention. There have been a few steps, especially from big boulder to boulder, where I easily could have broken a leg or ankle. It would take days before I could get help in some of these areas too.
As with so many hikes over the last year and 49 weeks, I learn so much when I am out here. But this trip has been different. I think it has a lot to do with the fact I've never been out this long before. I think before this trip my longest time in the backcounty was 9 days and 8 nights. Today is the 9th day and since I am not hiking out as I write this, I guess this moment marks the longest I've been out. And every moment from here on out will be the same.
It is hard to put into words exactly what I've learned too. There are technical skills: boulder hopping, rock scree climbing, climbing up a big pass, boulder hangs for food, backcountry laundry, foot care (or lack thereof), etc. But any hiker, climber, or backpacker knows there is something deep that changes that gets changed by your time out here. For the first few days, I felt in a funk. It wasn't until walking into camp on 8/4 after my pity party 100 yards from camp that something shifted. There is something about having 14 days to let the layers of my psyche be chipped away by the same forces that have crafted this beautiful landscape.
I guess that is why I keep hiking. The forces of nature chip and erode away mountains, forests, meadows, and drainages, leaving behind a masterpiece no human can compete with. I think we as people have removed ourselves too far from these same forces. I walk in the backcountry to be shaped by the same force that shape the most beautiful landscapes in the world. Maybe if I keep going, I too can be as beautiful and serene as the landscapes that have touched my soul these past 102 weeks.
It is the evening before Creighton and I start a trip we have been talking about for years. Creighton has spent many days and nights in the Winds for extended lengths and has gone many of the summers I have known him these past 7 years. The planning, the preparation, the packing and repacking, the shopping, and the travel is so close to finally ending and the actual trip beginning. We will hike in tomorrow carrying all the gear and all the food we will need for 15 days and 14 nights. I will journal every evening and take lots of pictures.
In so many ways, this feels like the culmination of almost two years of hiking every weekend but really 6 years of backpacking and hiking. I have the right gear, have the experience carrying my pack, have a better level of fitness than I have had in years, and have the knowledge of how to properly use what I bring. All that being said, I am nervous. The next two weeks will be a test, a test to see if I really do love being outside as much as I claim. If I pass, I am not confident I will be able to leave a life of wilderness living behind. It will be the dream that will compel and drive every action and choice in my life. It may not even be a test; it might just be a confirmation of what I already believe is true.
August 9th, 2012
Since seeing Bonney Pass from the day hike on 8/5 I have felt intimidated. From below the Gooseneck Pinacle the pass looked like a straight drop off. In the past two days, I have gone up and over 2 12,500 ft passes with a heavy full-on pack. We left camp around 11 am this morning to scout Bonney Pass with day packs. It took me three hours, but I am sitting on the top of an almost 13,000 ft pass, looking straight at Gannett and all sorts of rugged peaks and ridges to excite the eyes. The Winds are an amazing place. I am continually blown away by their beauty. As Creighton has said before, they also demand attention. There have been a few steps, especially from big boulder to boulder, where I easily could have broken a leg or ankle. It would take days before I could get help in some of these areas too.
As with so many hikes over the last year and 49 weeks, I learn so much when I am out here. But this trip has been different. I think it has a lot to do with the fact I've never been out this long before. I think before this trip my longest time in the backcounty was 9 days and 8 nights. Today is the 9th day and since I am not hiking out as I write this, I guess this moment marks the longest I've been out. And every moment from here on out will be the same.
It is hard to put into words exactly what I've learned too. There are technical skills: boulder hopping, rock scree climbing, climbing up a big pass, boulder hangs for food, backcountry laundry, foot care (or lack thereof), etc. But any hiker, climber, or backpacker knows there is something deep that changes that gets changed by your time out here. For the first few days, I felt in a funk. It wasn't until walking into camp on 8/4 after my pity party 100 yards from camp that something shifted. There is something about having 14 days to let the layers of my psyche be chipped away by the same forces that have crafted this beautiful landscape.
I guess that is why I keep hiking. The forces of nature chip and erode away mountains, forests, meadows, and drainages, leaving behind a masterpiece no human can compete with. I think we as people have removed ourselves too far from these same forces. I walk in the backcountry to be shaped by the same force that shape the most beautiful landscapes in the world. Maybe if I keep going, I too can be as beautiful and serene as the landscapes that have touched my soul these past 102 weeks.
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