Saturday, July 30, 2011

Week 48 Jul. 30 - Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge

Total Distance: Approximately 7 miles
Elevation Gain: Approximately 1000 ft.
Time: 9:30 am - 1:30 pm
Weather: Scattered clouds, sunny, very hot, too hot.

Traveling with my family the last week has me back in my home state of Oklahoma.  I did a google search for Oklahoma Hikes and found a book on Amazon aptly titled "Oklahoma Hiking Trails."  I did not have time to purchase through Amazon, but found a store in Oklahoma City that sold the book yesterday, and I bought it. I was immediately ecstatic that I did.  It is a great trail book and in color.  It details almost every trail in the state, so I can easily find new hikes when I visit in the future.  In the beginning sections, it lists the "top hikes" in Oklahoma.  The first is the Black Mesa summit, which I did back in week 16.  The next trail listed was a place called Charons Garden.  I read the entry and was intrigued.  The hike was located in the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge.  I woke up and was on the road by 7:30 am.

I arrived in the refuge around 8:30 am and decided to stop off by the visitor's center to make sure I was heading to the right place.  I am glad I stopped.  When I told the woman at the information booth my plan, she informed me the Charons Garden Wilderness has been closed due to excessive heat.  Last week 10 hikers were rescued, 8 for heat exhaustion and 2 were helicoptered to the hospital with broken bones and dehydration.  A fellow, dressed like a ranger looking very official, came over and joined the conversation.  He let me know that many of these hikers were ill-equipped for the conditions.  Many were in flip-flops and/or brought 1 bottle of water and nothing else.  He told me about some good hikes that were still open and apologized that he could not let me go into the area.

I was bummed and even thought about doing the Charon Garden hike anyway.  My new hike was in the same direction.  I got back in my car and took off.  I made the turn from the visitor's center and within 5 minutes was stopping on the road to let a herd of about 30 buffalo cross.  I don't remember ever seeing this many buffalo in one place in my life.  I was smiling like crazy and instantly began feeling better.  After they crossed, I drove on and was then stopping again, this time for a couple of longhorn cattle.

I got to the Lost Lake trailhead, got my boots on, loaded 6 liters of water in my pack, and began walking the kite trail (the trail the ranger suggested).  Within minutes, I crossed two men who asked what I was up to.  I told them, and they were in a similar situation.  They did tell me that in about 20 minutes I would reach a buffalo on the trail.  I was so excited.

I took off on the trail and was enjoying the early morning weather.  It was hot, but not oppressively hot.  I came to a place called forty-foot hole, a decent sized gorge for Oklahoma, and I was hearing a lot of commotion up ahead.  A family of about 7 were watching the buffalo.  I got up there just as they were leaving.  After they left, the buffalo and I hung out together for about 10 minutes.  I did not approach too closely, but I was within about 20 feet.  He was not concerned with me at all, instead he was enjoying the grasses along the trail.  I moved on, and within 30 minutes I was the end of the trail at another trailhead.

I walked the road a bit to a place called Boulder Creek Cabin, where another trail went up into another gorge.  This place was called The Narrows.  The ranger said this was his favorite area in the park.  I can see why.  I first dropped into the creek bed and could see some rock cliffs unlike any I ever knew existed in Oklahoma.  I then climbed from the creek bed and gained a bit of elevation.  It was about 11 am when I found a shady spot under some rock cliff, and I sat and drank lots of water.  It was really hot at this point, but thankfully there was a strong breeze.  The wind was coming through to this shaded area, and I was cooling off a good deal.

I was about to head back, when I spotted a few rock cairns moving up a talus slope.  I went in their direction, and soon I was climbing up to Eagle Mountain.  I was reminded of boulder climbs I have done in Utah and in climbing gyms.  It was a ton of fun, and soon I found myself really high up.  The rocks were scorching hot, as this was the east facing side of Eagle Mountain, and they had been warming up all day.  I saw a hawk fly about 30 feet above my head, and the view I had to the south was amazing.  I was burning up, and my hands hurt.  I decided to head back to the car.  I  took another route down from where I had climbed, and it was 12:15 when I was back at my rest stop in the shade.  I stopped again and drank a ton of water.

I took the trail back to the creek bed, and I had to soak my head in the creek to cool off some more.  The creek water was warm, a surprise to me since I am used to Washington's cold streams, lakes, and oceans.  I continued on, got back to the road, and the trailhead heading back to my car.  I met some cool guys from Kansas City and had a great chat.  The were looking to hike and maybe climb a bit, and I suggested the hike up the Narrows and up to Eagle Mountain.  I also warned to take a lot of water.

The hike back along the kite trail was brutally hot.  I stopped every 15 minutes in the shade to drink my water, which was now very warm.  I poured a little on my head and neck and would start back up.  I was back at the car by 1:30 pm.  I was down to a liter at this point.  I saved a half liter to drink, then dumped the rest on my head.  When I cranked the AC in the car to drive away, I finally started to feel cool again.

Orchid: Buffalo on the trail.

Onion: Oppressive heat or the shut down trail.

Picture:

Google Map

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